While it may sound like a safer bet to buy a new straight razor instead of a vintage one, that's rarely the case. There are still a few manufacturers that still make quality straight razors, such as Dovo and H. Boker, but at the same time there are a myriad of manufactures that just make RSOs (razor shaped objects). Avoid these at all costs. Even most of the quality manufactures rarely send out a shave ready razor. You might as well plan on sending your new razor out to get honed before you even use it. Buying from a reputable straight razor restoration professional guaranties that your razor will be shave ready with no need to even strop it.

The only thing you'll need in addition to your current kit would be a strop. A straight razor needs to be stropped before each shave in order to stay at its best. Of course, after using a straight razor you may decide you want to up your game a bit and get a nice badger brush, high quality shave soap, and pre-shave oil, among other things. The sky is the limit here.

Some get their razors honed every three months, other stretch it out to one year to 18 months. Much of this depends on your stropping skills, shaving frequency, and your facial hair. If you're just starting out then your stropping skills probably leave something to be desired so you'll probably need to have your razor honed more often.

If this is your first foray into straight razors it's hard to go wrong with a 5/8 hollow ground Dutch point razor. See our description of the various straight razor styles along with their strengths and weaknesses.

Dry thoroughly after use and make about three to four swipes on the strop to remove any soap scum or other detritus from the cutting edge (otherwise the cutting edge would pit overnight). Strop before use. Do not store your razor in a humid area such as a bathroom with a shower. See our more detailed list of straight razor maintenance tips.

Yes! Some may argue that point, but in my experience it's true. Between the sharpness of the cutting edge and the inherent control you have with blade angle, you can't get a better shave.

Some newer straight razors are made of stainless steel instead of carbon steel. Almost all vintage razors are carbon steel. While stainless is much less likely to rust it is not ideal for shaving. While it is a harder steel and will hold its edge longer, it almost never gets an edge as sharp as carbon steel. It is much more difficult to hone and stropping is not nearly as effective as it is with carbon steel. Maintain your razor properly and stick to carbon steel. Your face will thank you.

When you shave with a straight razor the thin cutting edge begins to roll over itself creating a burr along the edge. This burr makes the razor less effective in cutting hairs. Swiping the razor (cutting edge trailing) on a leather strop unrolls this burr, straightening it out and giving the razor a newly dressed edge enabling it to effectively cut again. It's always a good idea to make about five passes on a strop after shaving to clean any residual soap scum and other detritus off the blade as not doing so would cause the ultra thin cutting edge to quickly pit.

These are abbreviations for against the grain, with the grain, and across the grain. They refer to the different ways of shaving. If you are a beginner you should stick to WTG, then add XTG, and lastly, AGT. AGT is where you are most apt to allow the razor to slide sideways and that is not a good thing. I tend to only do WTG and XTG and feel that I get a fine shave with that. Adding ATG would give a slightly closer shave and I'll use that occasionally. You should always relather after shaving one way and switching to the next.